Latin American Idol
A very welcome addition to the city's paltry Mexican scene
One of many unfortunate things I have seen and heard as a food writer over the years is that, despite Bangkok's reputation as a well-known haven for international cuisine and fine foreign restaurants, which outnumber decent Thai eateries, the city doesn't have enough Mexican joints.
The restaurant is housed in a century-old residence. It has been a subject of complaint by local burrito buffs (including myself), as well as by Latin American visitors who could hardly find a place to get peppery comfort from their jalapeno and poblano chillies. So when I heard a new Mexican restaurant was opening in Sukhumvit, I was more than excited.
The restaurant is Los Cabos California Mexican Grill, named after the southern tip region of Mexico's Baja California peninsula. The eatery, which serves Cal-Mex cuisine, is housed in a historic teak-wood residence in a one-rai plot of land shaded by mature rain trees. The premise, built in the reign of King Rama V, looked more like a serene residential estate from afar. Getting closer, however, you will realise that the place, painted in minty green and mustard yellow, definitely has some vivid Latin touches to it.
Best-selling starters, guacamole and chips Los Cabos's founder/owner, Robb Vaughn, is not a new face on the restaurant scene. More than half of the San Diegan's life has been spent in the gastronomic business, including running several successful and award-winning restaurants in San Francisco and Hawaii. Robb's latest involvement in Bangkok was at Great American Rib, where he directed the kitchen.
Los Cabos's menu is straightforward and user-friendly. It lists seven starter options, from beef nachos to baked oysters; six Mexican classic dishes, such as tacos, enchiladas, burritos and tamales; a decent selection of soups and salads; fajitas, burgers and wraps; and the restaurant's specialities, including Mesquite wood-smoked pork ribs, grilled ahi tuna, margarita-marinated grilled chicken and Australian braised beef short ribs. We kicked off with chips and guacamole (175 baht), one of the best-selling starters. Served in a tiny stone mortar, the rich, creamy and smooth guacamole was made with imported Hass avocados and spiced to perfection.
We also sampled grilled chicken quesadilla (175 baht) and were pleased with its crispy exterior and chewy, cheesy and aromatic white cheddar filling that went brilliantly with the restaurant's tomato salsa. While the Ceasar salad wrap (195 baht), featuring romaine lettuce with meaty chunks of grilled chicken and Ceasar dressing in warm tortilla, was a truly yummy and healthy stomach-filler.
To make dining here even easier, the restaurant also has a collection of combination menus (295-375 baht), from which diners can get on one plate as many as three of their favourite Mexican classic treats and enjoy them with Mexican rice and beans.
We had the Blue Marlin Combo (375 baht). The bountiful portion presented crispy chicken taco, cheese enchilada and beef tamale. All were delightful. Though the combo menus looked more or less fixed, diners are welcome to mix and match the choices themselves.
Since Robb has long been known as a master of smoked food as well as a king of sauce, being in his domain you can't miss his barbecued ribs.
At Los Cabos it is called Mesquite wood-smoked pork ribs (325 baht for a half rack, and 550 for a full rack) because the ribs are fragranced in traditional Mexican style by Mesquite wood and not US Hickory. The combination platter of Mexican classics.
Definitely finger-licking scrumptious, the meaty and not too sloppy ribs came coated with Rob's special smoked jalapeno barbecue sauce and was served with two choices of side items. You can choose from grilled asparagus, spicy fries, Mexican beans, Mexican rice and roasted baby potatoes.
For desserts, though, there are limited options available. We tried homemade churros with Robb's special-concocted B52 dipping sauce (150 baht), and were highly satisfied with the warm and crispy, cinnamon and sugar-coated bread that intermingled lusciously with the creamy Kahlua-infused dip.
There are a few seating options to choose from, either in the bright and lofty, open-air dining room, at the margarita bar (where, among an impressive selection of cocktails, choices of margaritas are priced 130-195 baht per glass and 395-650 baht per pitcher) or outdoor terrace under the shade of trees.
A few skips away from Asoke BTS station, and down Sukhumvit 14 is Los Cabos Californian Mexican Grill. Though the restaurant opened several months ago, it's recently created a buzz about Bangkok, with a bustling grand opening.
What you'll notice immediately upon arrival is the property itself, a large plot of land as far as Sukhumvit main is concerned, that plays host to a renovated old Thai manor house–formerly the French ambassador's residence–and hundred year old trees. Décor is light, nothing over the top, but above all it's comfortable. ....MORE
